I love this video from Stephanie Lange because she does such a good job of explaining what to do and what not to do when working on yourself or a client who has hooded eyelids. I always remember a college roommate saying she liked my eye makeup and asking me to do hers the same way, and then when I started to do it, I realized I couldn’t do it the same way because her eyelids were completely hooded. I’ve also tried to copy a makeup tutorial in the past and then realized I can’t do it the same way because my eyes are slightly hooded. So, I’ve outlined the key points below for a quick overview of what Stephanie suggests.
(FYI, know that your actual eyelid is called the “mobile lid,” while the hood is the skin that covers the mobile lid. People with hooded eyes have skin that covers the mobile lid when looking straight on, with varying degrees of “hoodedness.”)
- Rather than applying eyeshadow to the mobile lid only, you want to blend it up over the hood, to create the illusion of a visible crease. (The real crease on hooded eyes is hidden under the hooded skin, if that makes sense.)
- Choose matte rather than shimmery or satin colors to go on your lid and hood. Using shimmery colors on the hood will emphasize the hood because they attract light, while using matte colors will push the hood back and create the illusion that the area is receding.
- Avoid winged liner or adapt it to suite the hooded eye. Winged liner, the way we typically see it done, makes the eye look even more hooded because all you see is the liner on the mobile lid. This emphasizes how limited the space is on the mobile lid. Instead, you can apply eyeliner to the water line only (or, if you’re really set on winged liner, search for adaptations for hooded eyes; I’ve found a couple).
- Apply highlighter only a small area right next to the brow without bringing it down too far. If you apply a highlighting color to too large of an area, it will literally be highlighting the hoodedness of the eye.
- Keep the top and bottom lids balanced. Applying too much liner or dark eyeshadow on the bottom compared the top will drag the eyes down and make them look droopy. Really this applies to any type of eyes or level of hoodedness.
- No matter how hooded the lids are, use a volumizing mascara because it will help to open up the eyes. Avoiding mascara when the hood comes up to or almost covers the eyelashes won’t do the eyes any favors.
That’s it! Check out the actual video for a really good visual on the do’s and don’ts, and find other helpful videos from Stephanie on her YouTube channel here.